Matera: A story of stone, soul, and second chances

Matera: A story of stone, soul, and second chances

When I first set eyes on Matera, I had a lump in my throat. This wasn’t just another Italian hilltop town – it was like stepping into a biblical painting. Layer upon layer of honey-hued stone homes, carved directly into the cliffs, stacked like a giant puzzle over time. And time, oh yes – Matera has had more than most.

Matera
Matera:A city of stones, soul and second chances.

Did you know Matera is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world? It’s believed to be over 9,000 years old, right behind Jericho and Aleppo. That’s older than written history, the pyramids, and even pizza (which is saying something in Italy!).

The soul of the stones: Exploring the Sassi

The heart of Matera lies in the Sassi districts – two ancient neighbourhoods, Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano, filled with stone dwellings and rock-hewn churches. These caves were once homes, stables, bakeries, and places of worship. Walking through the winding alleys, you’ll find frescoes still intact inside the chiese rupestri (rock churches), whispering stories of devotion that span centuries.

San Pietro Matera
Church of San Pietro Barisano.
Matera churches
Stories of devotion that span centuries.

And then there’s the contrast: beauty carved from hardship.

Exploring the Sassi
Homes, stables, bakeries, and places of worship.
Sassi Matera
A surprise awaits around every corner.
The stone walls of Sassi
Rough stone walls.

A city once forgotten

It’s hard to imagine now, but Matera’s past wasn’t always so romantic. For much of the 20th century, the Sassi were considered a national shame. People lived in poverty, without electricity or running water. Families shared these caves with their animals. Disease was rife. By the 1950s, the government forced thousands to evacuate and move into modern housing.

For decades, Matera was abandoned, forgotten, and judged. The stones stood silent.

Beauty carved from hardship, Matera
Cave church of Santa Maria de Idris.

Rebirth: The turning point

Then, in the 1990s, something incredible began to happen. Artists, creatives, and visionaries returned – and one of the first people to believe in the potential of the Sassi was Pier-Gregorio, the inspiring founder of Hotel Sassi. He began by tracking down the original owners of several of the old stone dwellings. He bought the properties, one by one, and lovingly restored them into guest rooms.

Hotel Sassi
Hotel Sassi.
Matera Hotel Sassi
Sundowner at Hotel Sassi.
Hotel Sassi
Courte San Pietro Boutique Hotel.

Today, Hotel Sassi has 47 unique rooms carved from the rock, and offers one of the most authentic, heart-filled stays in the city. I spent 2 nights there myself – and it was unforgettable. The passion Pier-Gregorio poured into reviving the Sassi for tourism helped change the future of Matera forever.

Tourism Matera
Reviving the Sassi for tourism helped change the future of Matera forever.
Vespa
Vespa, views and vintage vibes!
Tomatoes on bread
Simple. Local. Perfect!
Fiat
Old stones, classic wheels.

A stay in a cave: Courtesan Pietro Boutique Hotel

I also had the magical experience of staying at the Courtesan Pietro Boutique Hotel, tucked into the heart of the Sassi. My room was cool, quiet, and impossibly atmospheric. Carved out of stone, but with every comfort imaginable. It’s surreal and soulful – like sleeping inside a story.

Taste of tradition: The famous Pane di Matera

Oh, and let’s talk bread. Pane di Matera is no ordinary loaf. This crusty, golden bread with its curly top has a history as rich as the city itself. Made from ancient grains and natural yeast, it’s baked using traditional wood-fired ovens – some of which have been used for generations. It’s one of those things you’ll crave long after you leave.

Pane di Matera
Pane di Matera.

Matera’s message

Matera taught me something profound: your past does not define your future. From being labelled the “shame of Italy” to becoming a cultural icon and UNESCO World Heritage Site, Matera is living proof that transformation is possible – slowly, deeply, and beautifully.

In 2019, Matera was crowned the European Capital of Culture, and has since become one of the top-rated destinations in Italy. The world no longer pities Matera – it celebrates her!

So if you’re ever feeling stuck, remember Matera. The stones may have once witnessed hardship, but today, they shine with pride. And maybe, just maybe, we all have a little Matera in us — a hidden strength, waiting to be uncovered.

Until next time,

Zaritha

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Zaritha van Wyngaardt

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